Pickering - Week 2 Notes

Note Index | Apryle Pickering

Apryle Pickering Week 2 Field Notes excerpts - Life in the Village

Tuesday, September 7, 1999 (written Thursday)
SUMMARY

I awoke numerous times last night to hear the various animals in my village. First it was Vani (my niece) crying throughout the night, then it was the rooster, pig, dog and birds that were outside my window. At one point in the night I even awoke to hear two Geckos fighting in the front room. This is obviously very different from my sleeping habits at home but I am sure that I will be able to adjust. I finally got out of bed at about 6:30 and washed up before breakfast. Breakfast consisted of pie, scones and bread with tea. It was very tasty. Nana had made so much of everything. I did not see how we would be able to eat it all. When we were finished eating Tila and I quickly got ready to go to Lautoka for the Sunday church service. Nana and Tata could not be ready in time so it was only us that were going. We caught a special church bus at the bus stop that was about 45 minutes late like everything else in Fiji I believe. The people on the bus were very friendly and were interested to find out what I was doing there. The bus ride was otherwise very long. We got of at a Rugby field in Lautoka which was where the church service was held. It was very interesting, not like anything I have ever seen. After the service there was lunch for everyone then it was back on the bus and headed for home. I fell asleep on the ride home but when I awoke there was an Indian man sitting with us and talking with Tila. His name was Sachin and he was curious who I was. At one of the stops he even got off to get me a drink. Tila spend the rest of the ride talking with him while I looked out the window and when we got off the bus he said that he would stop by later. When we got home I took a shower (not really a shower, however). It was at a faucet in this little room behind the kindergarten. I had to pour a bucket of water over my head to wash my hair. It will be a very interesting experience for the rest of the time here. When had finally decided that I was clean we went with Semi and his friends to go get their cow beside the road. When we got back Sachin was waiting for us, we talked for a while then it was time for afternoon prayer and dinner. Dinner was extremely eatable. I had chicken chop suey, rice, cucumbers and fish. After dinner Tila and I played with Vani for a while then had our nightly coffee with Na na. I then found myself extremely tired so after I had written my notes for the day I went to bed.
Last Night's 10th Day Ceremony

I was informed that when someone dies in the village you have a ceremony for them on the 4th night, the 10th night the 50th night and the 100th night to celebrate their life. This ceremony was held the wife of the chief. The ceremony was held in an open shed in the middle of the village. There were tarps down for all to sit on. The elder men were located in the front facing the rest of the people then it was the important men, followed by the younger men then the women were in the back. I was able to sit closer to the front, however. First the side of the chief presented their Yaqona, it was the same man that spoke at my Sevu Sevu. He is the Matanivanua, or middleman to the chief. Then a man from the wife's side speaks and there is prayer time. The wife was from our side of the village. The grog is then served to the men only from the side of the wife. Then more Yangona is presented from the Chief's side and a prayer of thanks is said and the grog is drunk. The chief's side presents more Yangona yet again and the grog is passed around one more time. It is then announced that it is time for the women to prepare the feast while the men stay there and drink. I left with the women and we waited in a vacant house with other women while the elders made the food. When the feast was served I was able to sit at a table with the older men and we got first choice of the food. There was pork, Chop suey, cucumbers, lots of fish, cassava, and other breadfruits. When we were finished eating someone came around with a bowl to wash your hands then you left the table to let the others move in and eat. It was all men at this table while the women were sitting on the floor and eating. You were able to leave now. I was surprised, however, that the chief was not there. Tila said that he was old and he usually did not leave his house but since this was for his wife I assumed he would be there.
Church Service in Lautoka

As I said before we took a special bus to the church service. It consisted of only those who were going to the Christian Outreach Center service and was a nicer bus than those that go to and from Vaileka. It had windows and was very clean. The driver was Indian and his son was riding with him. I immediately noticed when I boarded the bus that there was Christian music playing. It was about four songs with a preacher preaching in between them. Altogether they lasted about one half hour so the driver just played it over and over again. It became very monotonous. The preacher from Rakiraki introduced himself to me. His name was Pastor Mark his wife and three children were with them. There were about four other families on the bus. One family even consisted of an Indian woman and a Fijian man. They had two kids as well. Most got up to introduce themselves and the others just smiled. I sat down with Tila and we were on our way. It seemed to be a very long bus ride. As I stated before the service was held at Churchill field in Lautoka. It was a Rugby field with stands set up on the sides like you would see in the US. There was a bandstand in the middle and there were people already set up to play. There were also four men singers and six women along with the preacher who had his own microphone. In the stands were about two hundred people or more. Mostly Fijian but some Indian and even a few people from New Zealand and Australia. This service was not a usual service it was a Farwell service for a pastor in Lautoka. This was the reason for all the congregations to meet together. There were people there from Ba, Tavua, Nandi, Rakiraki and Lautoka. The service began with the preacher and the band singing. It was very energetic and all the audience joined in singing and clapping. After they have sung four songs the Preacher announced that there were buckets being placed in front to donate to your region. The buckets were labeled with the five regions present. When the giving session was finished then the pastors from each region were called up to give a speech. When each was done then the person who the service was held for preached a sermon. His name was Pastor Allen and his wife Debbie was from Australia. He was a very short Indian man but I found his sermon to be rather humorous. One of his main tactics was to get his audience to laugh. At one point in the sermon he even spoke of Helen Keller, Albert Einstein and Abraham Lincoln. I found the whole point of his sermon to be saying that it does not matter if you are educated or want to pursue your education as long as you are with God then you will succeed in life. This is a concept that I obviously do not agree with. With all of his comparisons, however, he did not know the true history and often mixed up his facts. Overall though he was rather inspiring and the crowd loved him, yelling Amen and waving their bibles. When he was done preaching then they did one more song while the people were supposed to place more money in the buckets for Pastor Allen personally and his trip to England. When the last song was over the people then made their way to the yard to have lunch. The children were told to eat first, then everyone else got in line. There was an incredible amount of food on three different tables and most of it was finished by the time everyone went through the line. I had vegetable curry and rice as usual. Tila kept putting more food on my plate throughout our meal too. After lunch was all over we had to wait about an hour for our bus then we were off again. I slept most of the way home and was relieved to see the Vitawa bus stop. It turned out to be a very long trip!
Sachin's perspective on Indian marriage

Sachin arrived at my house late in the afternoon on Sunday after Tila had spoken to him on the bus. He is a young man, 20 years old, with a very western look to his Indian heritage. He completed the sixth form in high school and now works at Courts in Vaileka in the credit department. He was eager to begin talking with me about America and what my life was life at home. His first topic of discussion was whether I had a boyfriend at home or in Fiji. I said that I had one at home and that ended his vision of us together so I began to ask him questions about Indian marriages and if he was allowed to date girls at his age. He told me that he was not allowed to date girls but he did not have arranged marriages either. If he was to find a girl that he would like to marry then he would tell his parents and they would enter the village and consult with neighbors to see if she would be suitable. He is not allowed to see any girl exclusively and spend extensive time alone with her. He went on to explain that this is the better way to deal with marriage and romance and that the way we do things in America is wrong. I chuckled and asked him to elaborate. He said that when we have fun with so many different people then marriage is not necessary and that is wrong. He also stated that this is what makes so much divorce in America and short marriages. I understand where he is coming from but for some reason I went on to defend the American way, as do many other Anthropologists I believe. I tried to explain that we do not marry at such an early age and that I want to be sure that I am compatible with someone before I choose to marry that person. He disagreed and proceeded to change the subject to relations between Fijians and Indians. He said that Indians and Fijians in Vitawa tend to get along and if an Indian family chooses to live in the village then they would be able to but they would have to join the Fijian religion in that village. I asked what some of the differences were between Indians and Fijians were and he said that Indians did not eat meat and their source of food was somewhat different, also their languages differ. He invited Tila and I over to dinner next week to see what it is like and I said that would be great. I hope to learn much at this event.
Conversation with Jim

Today while Tila I were sitting outside eating ice cream and making plans for tomorrow her brother Semi arrived with his friend Jim. He is a skinny man in his early twenties who lives next to us in a Bure house. This was the first time that I saw him and he too was excited to talk to me. He was telling me the layout of the village and how he spent his days. He explained that the village is split up into three parts or committees and when you have a problem it is the people in your committee that will help you out. Also these different parts share the tap and water, which was something that I was unaware of before. I was unsure if the areas he was describing had to do with the Yavusas in the village or if this was something different but I failed to ask the difference. He also explained his day at work. He gets up at six o'clock to harvest the sugarcane next to the village then returns for breakfast a few hours later. After breakfast he loads all the sugarcane that he has cut onto the truck and train then comes home for lunch and rest. He then must go to the sugar plantation to do some work then but is home around five or six to do chores at home and eat dinner. He works Monday to Friday and has the weekends off. This seems like very hard work and I hope to go with them sometime to harvest the sugarcane and see what it is like.

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Sevu Sevu Experience

I attended three Sevusevus last week when we all arrived. They were all along the same lines but mine happened to be the most formal one that I attended. In both Michelle's and Megan's it took place in their house and it was very informal. Mine was in the Chief's house and Inia who works in the Education office was present to represent me along with Steve, my sister Tila and three other students. When we entered the Chief's house we announced Bonge then sat across from the Chief, his Matanivanua and two other elder men. It was men in the front and us students sitting behind them. The ceremony began with the Matanivanua speaking over the yangona and accepting me into the village. When he was finished Inia spoke on my behalf over the yaqona as well. When both men had spoken a prayer was said then they mixed the grog and it was served to all. I noticed that the chief had his own bowl to drink from because no others are allowed to drink from the same bowl. When we finished three rounds we then thanked everyone, I introduced myself to the Chief and we were allowed to leave. The Sevu Sevu was over. This was the way that the others went as well, however, the ones that I saw did not have a chief present and it was the father of the household or the brother who spoke over the yaqona. My family is not allowed to drink grog due to their involvement in the Christian Outreach Center so Nana and Tata were not present only Tila and she did not drink the Kava. It was a very educational experience and one that I am sure that I will experience again during my stay here.
Personal Reactions

It is now my second day in the village and I am adjusting very well. I enjoy being with my family very much and Tila is always willing to help. The biggest problem that I have had so far has either been the bathroom and shower situation or the fact that my family wants me to gain 50 pounds and they are doing a great job. My brother Semi was hesitant to talk to me at first but he has opened up a lot in the past two days and now whenever he goes anywhere he asks me to come along. He only works around the house and fishes. Tata does not fish anymore like I thought he did, he has a bad knee. Nana does not work either except for around the house. I wonder how they make any money. It must all come from Tila teaching at the Kindergarten and the younger brother in Suva working as a police officer. This is very different from my life at home where both my parents are working all the time. I enjoy being around Nana and Tata during the day much more and it makes me think that I am missing valuable time with my parents at home. Besides my family being great things in the village are going well also. I already have some friends and contacts that I will be able to use later. Sachin I suspect will eventually become a nuisance but it will be a great opportunity to learn more about Indian culture. Overall, I enjoy being here participating in the ceremonies and becoming familiar with the village and the people in it. I am glad that the Sevusevus are over because I hate drinking Kava but I do miss being with the other students. I am sure that I will be able to visit them though and I will see them during our sessions.

Monday September 13, 1999 (written Tuesday Sept. 14,1999)

SUMMARY

I slept much better last night I only woke up once. This I am sure will get better with time. After I had washed up we sat down to eat breakfast. Tila had left for school already and Semi and Api were still sleeping so it was just myself, Nana and Tata. Nana had made pancakes to go with the maple syrup that I brought them and we all enjoyed them very much. I was told to keep eating as usual and the final count ended up at four pancakes. When breakfast was over Tata brought me into the front room and told me to get my notebook. He explained the every morning he sat down with Debbie and told stories so I will do the same. This aspect of my home stay is very helpful to me. When Tata was finished I then was able to straighten out my room and start some of my work. I sketched the house and began on my field notes until Tila arrived home from Kindergarten. We then took a walk through the village so that I could sketch the different houses and returned for lunch. At that time Steve and Karen arrived to see how I was doing and to give me my notes. When they left Tila and I went into town to by paper for my sketching, a lamp, a flashlight, and a little fan. We found everything that I needed fairly quickly, stopped in to see Sachin in Courts and then took a taxi home. I was hoping to see Megan in town but I guess she had already left. After we returned home I then redrew my sketches in the front room with Tila and talked for a while. Tila and Nana then washed my clothes and hung them out to dry while I played with Vani. They are very strict about not letting me help with the laundry or the cooking. Hopefully this will change over time. Semi and Api were headed to Narewa to visit relatives and get the boat so Tila and I went with them. We walked along the railroad tracks and I found it was very enjoyable. It was good to get out and exercise. Semi pointed out all the crops along the way such as, bananas, cassava, mango, papaya, corn and sweet potatoes. I also got a glimpse at the big rock that we are to climb. When we arrived in Narewa Tila and I went to see Stephanie's family and we sat outside and talked for a while. When Semi came over then we left to go get the boat. The boat was a little ways out into the water so we had to wade in to get to it. When we finally managed to get in Tila was told to steer and Semi was in the back at the motor. I love being on boats so this was very exciting to me. The scenery was beautiful and the stars were very bright. We pulled the boat onto shore in Vitawa and walked back home. By then Nana had made dinner, fried fish and noodles with rice. I again stuffed myself then retired to the front room to do some typing before going to bed.
Morning Discussion with Tata - Fijian Customs

After breakfast Tata took me into the living room and told me that every morning he and Debbie would sit and he would tell her of some of the Fijian customs. He first started about what happens to a body when somebody dies. He said that the body would be sent to the mother's village and an uncle would bury the body. He gave an example of his granddaughter Vani. He said that when she dies then her body would be sent to Api's village to be buried and she would be given up from ours. He also said that after the body has been buried then the uncle would be able to go to the child's' house and take whatever his family wants no matter how big. This is also the case for the child when they are alive. They are able to go into the uncle's household and take whatever they want. (I found this rather strange first of all because he would use his granddaughter as an example and also in America kids usually outlive their parents and he was speaking as if he would be alive or the parents of the person who died would be alive to give the child up.)

Next Tata described what the purpose of the drum was and when it is used. The drum or Lali is beaten on occasions of church, when there is a death in the village, the New Year and for their sacred dance. The beats of the drum are different for each one. For a death in the village the drum is beaten once about every thirty seconds for all other occasions the beat is more upbeat and happy. The Lali is the main way that the people in the village know that there is a death. For the other occasions the drum is expected and does not surprise anyone.

Tata then went on to describe what the purpose of the Matanivanua was in the village. He said that this person acted as a middleman for the village and the Yavusas that lived there. If the village had a problem or request they would go to the Matanivanua and he would go to the chief is he thought it necessary. In the village there are three main Yavusas. The leader Yavusa and the one to which the chief belongs is Navatu. The second one is Burelevu and the third is the one to which my family belongs Bua. In the Bua Yavusa there are three mataqalis. The leader is the Tobuniuca mataqali, second is the Navakacacara and the third and the one to which our family belongs is the Namasaga mataqali. Tata told me that he would sketch all the mataqalis of the village for me at some point. The Bua Yavusa and the mataqalis that are located in it are illustrated in the map of the village.

Tata also described a little bit about his own family. He stated that he has seven brothers and the eldest must be respected and he must respect all those that are older than he and he is the second youngest. He told me of how you are not able to pass your elders and if you do this or say something to offend them you must bring yaqona or a whales tooth to ask for forgiveness. All people must be respected in Fiji no matter if they are poor, rich, uneducated or educated. He used the expression, "you must respect every Tom, Dick and Harry". He has one sister who died. I am sure that I will find more out about my family when I do my census on my household but he did give me some information about what each of his brothers did for an occupation.

1. Sugarcane worker

2. Live in another village I think

3. Has a house on the other side of the village

4. Runs a village border van

5. Police corporal in Suva

6. Tata

7. Lives in Narewa.

He mentioned two of his cousin brothers. One that died in July, he was a chef and the other lives in Vitawa and is a good catholic man. He also has lots of cousin sisters but he did not elaborate on that.

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The Trip to Narewa

In the later afternoon while Tila and I were walking along the tracks Semi and Api announced that they were going to Narewa so we decided to go along with them. The walk helped me to learn more about he layout of the village. There are many houses on the backside of the main hill and I had no idea that they were there. Most of the houses lie right along the sea and there was fishing equipment in back of many of the houses. Across the tracks was the sea and there were three boats in the shore area. It smelled of fish and the ocean a smell that I enjoy. We walked along the tracks for about one mile when we came to the big rock that lies next to the village. On the side of the rock were various types of crops that Semi was eager to point out. First it was banana and papaya then it was sweet potato, mango, yams and corn. The corn looked like it does at home. I was excited to see the fruit trees because I never get to see anything like that at home. After about another mile we arrived at the split in the tracks and a little spot where there was a sandy beach. Semi went to check on his boat while we made out way to Narewa. When we arrived Semi and Api went to one of Tata's brothers house while Tila and I went to find Stephanie. Stephanie and five other women were sitting on the porch of the house next to hers. I met the elder grandmother again and the others I recognized from Stephanie's Sevu Sevu. We talked a little about what I thought of Fiji so far and of what Stephanie had been doing so far then Semi came to get us. On our way out of the village Tila and I stopped so that I could meet Tata's brother. He lived in one room tin house with a soft matted floor. Only him and a younger boy were there at that time. We introduced ourselves then it was back to Vitawa. When we got to the split in the tracks Semi announced that we would be taking the boat. This was unknown to me but it made the trip much more exciting. We waded into the water until we could reach the boat then we all piled in. Semi was at the rear while Api and I were in the middle and Tila was rowing from the front. She was singing the whole time, which we all found very humorous. When we were far enough off shore he started the engine and it was a quick ride home. The boat was left in Vitawa so that Semi could do some fishing that night. He in fact did go with Api that night and did not return until late the next morning!
Personal Reactions

As you may have noticed by reading my field notes the boat ride was one of the highlights of my trip so far. I love the ocean and to be able to go out at night when all the stars are so bright made for a beautiful scene. Tata says that we will go fishing one day but I think that he is not well enough to do this so I may have to go with Semi sometime. Tata cannot walk well on his knee so fishing may not be the best thing. Semi likes to go at night though so I will have to get lots of sleep the day before. I would never be able to do anything like this at Union that is what I believe makes this trip such a learning experience.

Sachin is starting to scare me a little now. When Tila and I went into Courts to say hi today he ran out to meet us and wanted me to stay there and talk with him. When I told him that I had to go he almost looked mad. Semi said that he stopped by today too; It was a good thing that I was not here. I need him as a contact to the Indian community in Vitawa but I need to make it clear that I am here to do research and that we are just friends. I hope that this type of interaction does not occur too much during my stay. I am not very good at being straightforward about my position.

I am definitely starting to miss my family more and I am looking forward to being able to talk to them this weekend. It felt very good to send out my letters and I hope that they arrive. A package from my mother should be arriving this week, that will be exciting. Life here is going very well but I am still not used to the whole cleanliness thing. I keep telling myself that I will be able to stay in a hotel once a week and that makes me feel better but I wish that the shower situation was not so difficult. I just don't feel clean afterward. I believe that the other girls are in the same situation, however, so I don't feel like I have much reason to complain. Other than that all is well.

Tuesday, September 14, 1999 (written Wed. Sept 15, 1999)
The Census Interviews

The first house we went into was right behind ours. It was a fairly large yellow house with many rooms and what looks to be some sort of extension built on the side. This extension was built up off the ground too which I found interesting because I thought only the house of the chief was built up off the ground. This may have been due to the house being built on the side of a small hill. Tila yelled into the house and then told me to go on in. The first room that you saw as you entered the house was full of unfinished mats that were in the process of being made. The floor was lined with mats as well as is all the houses that I have entered so far. Nei was in a room off to the right with two other women and a baby. Tila asked if we could ask some questions and Nei enthusiastically agreed. She is a widow and the head of the household so it was convenient since she is always there during the day to ask questions. When I was finished interviewing her she showed me a photo album with pictures of mostly little kids, my brothers and sisters and even a picture of Debbie. When I was finished looking at the pictures we thanked them for their time and moved on to the next house.

This house was further up in the village. It was one room green wooden house with a real Fijian floor. It was extremely comfortable to lie in and made me wish that our floors were like that. When you walk in the door on the left was the kitchen corner and in the back were two beds behind curtains. The house belonged to two older women Lele's cousin sisters. Both women were widows so the eldest woman who was about 85 was the head of the household. I was informed that she was going deaf so when Tila or the other women there asked her the questions they had to scream. It made for an interesting interview. There was one other woman there and she was the daughter of the younger sister. Throughout the interview this woman was looking for lice in her daughters hair and picking them out. A boy entered the house as well when he saw me inside and stayed throughout the interviews. In the middle of our conversation the eldest women got up and got ready for church. The other women stayed a little while longer then left for church as well. I guess I have to learn when church starts in the village so that I know when to schedule interviews. After the women had left, Tila and I left too. I think that these interviews went very well, I am very thankful that Tila is there to translate and help me.
Afternoon Discussion with Tata - Perspective on Fijian Life

Tata came in to chat with Megan and I about Fijian life and the cost of living. He stressed that this is a good life. The cost of living is low and there is little money in Fiji. He told us that his family has no money but they still manage to eat good meals three times a day. They are able to obtain most of their food without money. They grow their own cassava and catch their own fish. They also grow other crops like cabbage. The only foods that they need money for are sugar, flour and other little treats. He said that he could never live in America because everything is based on money and he would not want to live like that. All he needs is here, they do not have much but that is all they need. He mentioned that the value of money in Fiji is supposed to drop at the end of this year and that may cause problems for many people. He told us how he used to work in a Hotel and in a Gold mine but after he had a stroke he had to quit. He believes that it is the power of God, which healed him. He was a fisherman for a few years after he quit his other jobs but then he began to have knee problems so he had to stop that too. Now Semi does the fishing when we need fish and also catches crabs to eat. When the family needs money they get if from their younger son in Suva and Tila's work in the kindergarten.
Legend of Udre Udre

Tata told me of the Legend of the high chief Udre Udre whose grave is after the Rakiraki High School on the way into town. He said that he was the last chief to eat human flesh and it was told that he ate 99 people and liked eating women the best. He was a very little man and he was considered a good chief in his day.
Custom of First Child

When a woman has her first child she is then said to be in Rabo. She must stay closed in the house with her baby for one month. During his period she is only allowed to wash with a wet cloth and cannot leave the house. On the fourth night after the baby is born, the baby is given a name and there is a big feast. When the Rabo is completed then the baby is given a bath or Visilimi. This is also a time for a big feast. From that day on whenever the baby enters a house or village for the first time it is presented with various presents: mats, whales teeth (Tambua), clothes and food.

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Wednesday, September 15, 1999 (written Thurs, Sept 16, 1999)
Vatukacevaceva Village

Tila, Semi, Api, Vani and I got ready to go to the Vatukacevaceva village to see their cousin brother. We rode in the back of a truck to Vaileka then caught the bus to the village. The road was very bumpy and I was surprised that the bus even traveled on it. This village was located in the Nakauvadra Range of mountains. The bus ride was very bumpy but he scenery was beautiful. At times I did not think that we were going to make it, the bridges were often covered in water and they had no sides. Tila informed me that Vatukacevaceva meant "Stone Winter" and that we were going to see a cousin brother and his family. She also told me that this was a good village to get the history of how people came to Fiji. Most of the houses along the way were Indian homes and they children were standing outside by the road to watch the bus. When we arrived in town all of the towns people came to meet the bus to see who was getting off. They all stared at me with a very confused but welcoming look on their faces. We walked up a path through the middle of the village until we reached the last house. This was the home of their cousin brother, his wife and their two kids. When we first got there no one was home. We made our way inside, opened the windows and the curtains and made ourselves at home. Tilatila began preparing the bread that we had brought and some tea. Shortly afterward Sakiusa (cousin) came up the path with his daughter. We said our greetings and all sat down. Tata's aunt also lives in the village (his father's sister) and she came over to say hello. Tilatila and Semi referred to her as grandmother. After we had drank our tea and eaten the bread, Semi and Sakiusa made some grog to drink. Semi was smoking lots of cigarettes; I had never see him smoke before. He seemed to put on a front for his cousin. He acted very powerful and had to show off a little. Tila and I decided to go for a walk. We took Alesi, one of Nana's cousin sister's adopted children. She was part Indian and part Fijian. Nana's cousin sister was in the hall weaving mats. During our walk I noticed that there were many disabled children in this village. While walking up the path I noticed a retarded girl sitting with her grandmother. Tila said that she was known to break into people's houses and steal their money when they are not home. I found this rather amusing. I also saw a child who I thought was a boy but Tila said no that is a little girl, she is deaf and can hardly speak. She had one lazy eye and was very violent with the other children. She followed us for the rest of our time there making loud screeching noises. Everyone called these children coo coo and said that they possessed an evil spirit. Tila told me that there were a large number of these children in the village and nobody knows why. She also told me of the myth that when visitors come the weather gets especially windy. The man that usually tells the story of Fiji was not there so I was told that we would come back another time. I found this interesting because the weather was very windy at that time. The people in this village work for themselves. They grow their sugar cane, fish, and work on the pine plantations. Every mataqali in the village has their own pine crop and sugarcane field. It was a cute little village and the people seemed very happy to see a visitor. They must not get many visitors since it is in the anterior. The bus came at 5:00pm to get us and we made our way back on the bumpy bus.
Sevusevu/Census Interview

Tata informed me that although I had done my Sevusevu to the chief I must now attend one with Tata Levu. The leader of our Namasaga mataqali. Tata went first to make sure that he was prepared then called me in to follow. The house was very modern with lots of furniture, fake flowers and dishes. The bed was in the front room with a mosquito net and the only one to greet us was Tata Levu. Tila, Kelera and Vani also went along. Tata had obtained some yaqona from another house so that he could present it. He made the speech in Fijian then another speech was made by Tata Levu. When it was finished he offered the yaqona to drink but we declined. My family does not drink it due to their religion. At this point Tila asked him if I could ask a few questions and he excitedly agreed. Kelera ended up answering and translating most of the questions for me. When we were done I said thank you and he told me to come back anytime I wanted some fresh coconut. I think I just might take him up on that offer sometime.

The next interview was at Kelera's house. This was also the house of one of Tata's elder cousin brothers, Kelera's father. His father was younger than his brother's father. This brother does not even live there however; he lives in Ba so Kelera answered all the questions. The house was very, VERY modern. There was a television in the corner that most of the children were watching (Kelera has nine siblings) and a rug on the floor. There were many chairs and tables and lots of pictures of family members on the wall. It did not take long to ask her the questions due to her advanced English speaking. When we were finished we watched a little TV then returned home for dinner.
Tata's Story Telling

Tata and I sat down to tell a few stories today. He was very interested in my life at home. He was inquiring about the kind of fish where I live and the types of food that I eat. We discussed the raising of turkeys in my backyard, how I ate Emu once and how I love to fly fish. He found this all very interesting. He has never seen either Emu or turkey. He told me what fruits were in season now. The mango, the breadfruit and some others. There was some discussion of the occupation of my parents and when I told him that my mother works in a prison he told me the story of when the European spies stayed here. He said that three white men came into the village, so of course Tata offered them a place to stay because that is the Fijian way. The three of them stayed here for about two weeks when Tata noticed that one of them would go outside every night for about one hour. When he was asked about it he said that he was looking at the stars. Soon after that however the secret service of Fiji intercepted their transmission and came to pick them up. This happened again in the village when there was a German visitor who dressed like a woman. He lived here for about six months before his transmission with Germany was intercepted and he was caught too. I found these stories rather interesting because I do not see why people would send spies to Fiji. What sort of information would they be trying to obtain? I wonder if people now suspect me of being a spy. Probably not...
Personal Reactions

I understand what Debbie meant when she said that you have to watch out for the young men here. Maluma (a young man from the village) came over to see me and was very talkative. We was saying that when he saw my white skin he needed to get to know me and that he did not know how to talk to Europeans. He told me that he would write me a letter and tell me how he felt. I assured him that he did not need to do this. Then he wanted to come to my house in the morning even though I told him no. I can see how you would have to be careful not to be caught alone with someone like that. It was a little bit intimidating. I wonder why they call all white people Europeans. I have been called a European numerous times, even when I have told them where I was from. I guess we do the same with black people in the United States. We assume that they are from Africa.

I cannot help but notice the uncleanliness of the kids here. Most of the kids including my own niece have lice. You can see the mothers picking it out of their hair and often times the children have infected cuts and bug bites. They rarely use band-aids and there is nothing to stop the mosquitoes from eating them. Vani does take two baths a day but I have never seen anyone wash her hair. The same is true for the rest of my family. I don't think that they wash their hair. Everyone brushes their teeth once a day if that and they never wash their hands before eating and of course we eat with our hands. This aspect of life here bothers me the most I think. I cannot help myself from wanting to wash my niece thoroughly and brush her teeth. I have noticed most of the kids are loosing their teeth already. I asked if that was from not brushing but Tila said that it was from eating too much candy. I just don't understand how their parents can watch their teeth rot. I guess I have to understand that this is different and I must accept it.

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